Miranda Chance
Edited by Ella Querin
The death of Dame Vivienne Westwood at the end of 2022 cast a shadow of grief on the fashion industry. Her integration of punk culture into high fashion not only played a foundational part in the experimental culture of the 90s and 2000s, but also helped shed positive light on communities that historically have not been reflected in pop culture. Late Dame Westwood’s husband and current creative director of Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler, used the brand’s first collection following his wife’s death to celebrate her legacy. In contrast, his most recent Spring/Summer 2024 collection is an homage to Westwood’s personality and life, as reflected through her outrageously unique personal style.
Kronthaler presented his first collection as a widower at Paris Fashion Week in March of 2023. The ready-to-wear line was familiar and comforting to the brand’s loyal consumers, covered in plaid and floral patterns that mashed together in a surrealist style that is a recognizable feature of the brand. Dramatically vibrant and dark colors adorned the pieces, clashing defiantly against the cookie cutter Peter Jones department store where the outfits were shot. Everything about the collection, from the clothes to the presentation, made an assuring statement to those still grieving the loss of the brand’s creator and eponym: Vivienne Westwood will not be changing anytime soon. Though the brand’s designs continue to morph with the seasons and trends, the rebellious label and alternative audience the brand is marketed to remains consistent.
Having assured fans of the brand’s relative immutability following the Dame’s passing, Kronthaler took his next collection in a slightly unconventional direction. Where the Autumn Winter 2023 collection honored Westwood’s legacy as a designer and celebrated the brand she created, the Spring Summer 2024 collection celebrated her as an individual, taking inspiration from the Dame’s own closet. Kronthaler tells Hypebeast that his design process for the collection, named 43 Old Town after the address of him and Westwood’s home, started while he was going through his late wife’s wardrobe in May of this year, creating and photographing dozens of looks that he associated with her. He then describes drawing from a hat to determine which of the outfits would be inspiration for the runway.
Last September in Paris, show-goers were greeted with a wide variety of patterns and materials, and statement accessories reflective of several decades. In line with the late designer’s own preferences, many looks were baggier and featured silhouettes that deviate from the wearer’s own body shape. The show ended in classic Westwood fashion with 2 bridal looks; the show closer was worn by the Dame’s granddaughter and muse, Cora Corré. Though slightly different from what the brand usually displays in its ready-to-wear collections, consumers can appreciate the collection for invoking remembrance for Westwood and celebrating the creative she was. With a newfound sentimentality for the personality behind Vivienne Westwood, fans are excited for what’s to come next season.
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