Corina Samaha
Edited by Sofia Gobin
The recent Milan and Paris Men’s Fashion Weeks have again seen a rise in women walking men’s runways, a trend that started around 2015. Why is this? Men’s collections are obviously geared towards men on fashion weeks showcasing menswear. What is more, the women on men’s catwalks are often sporting womenswear. What is the rationale behind designing a female collection for a men’s fashion week, and how did this trend start?
In 2015, the fashion industry witnessed a wave of androgyny. Men began to lean into femininity, while women dabbled in more masculine clothing. This shift led to a blurring of the once-clear line between traditionally male and female aesthetics, particularly notable on the runway. Until then, fashion always had a habit of segregating men and women, both in advertising and on the catwalk.
However, with the shift towards androgyny, an increasing number of shows embraced the concept of co-ed runways. This allowed fashion houses to present a more cohesive brand identity. For many labels, the female and male aesthetics are intertwined closely. By showing them side by side, these fashion giants reaffirm their image, which in turn reinforces their brand identity.
While this may be the reason the phenomenon of women walking in men’s shows began, it certainly doesn’t show why this has persisted. Though it may seem counter-intuitive, this movement generates a large revenue stream for fashion houses, particularly through their Resort collection.
A fashion house’s Resort collection is the line between the sale of Fall/Winter clothes and the arrival of Spring/Summer clothing in stores. What used to be a collection restricted to summer wear has now become an opportunity to capitalize on consumerism and travel. For summer, one could easily picture light fabrics like linen, swimsuits and large-brimmed hats, the modern-day Resort collection has shifted from summerwear to a more varied collection, including winter coats.
Many people have given up winter holidays in the tropics, preferring to hit snowy destinations such as Aspen or choosing a “staycation”. So, why create an entire collection for a smaller subset of consumers, who continue to vacation in sunny destinations? This flexibility also ensures an appeal to clients in many of fashion houses’ “biggest spend countries”. This includes Asian, Arab, and Russian markets where the varying temperatures call for different types of clothing. In these regions, a one-size-fits-all approach simply won’t cut it.
Although resort collections present an opportunity for added revenue, they also come with an added expense. A new collection, for most labels, entails having to put on a costly new runway to showcase it. However, by combining resort collections with men’s shows, fashion houses save on the cost of an entirely separate show for the Resort line. Of course, featuring the unisex Resort collection in Men’s shows includes the continued presence of womenswear in men’s shows.
The allure of female supermodels in women’s clothing attracts womenswear editors to menswear exhibitions, which provides added visibility for men’s collections, as evidenced by the palpable excitement brought on by Kendall Jenner and Naomi Campbell walking in the 2015 men’s Givenchy show.
The appearance of women in Men’s Fashion Weeks proves that these runways are geared towards men only in name. However, men are seldom seen on women’s runways. In fact, shows dedicated to womenswear alone seem untouchable by the male presence. What accounts for this stark difference in the treatment of men’s and women’s fashion shows?
While there doesn’t seem to be an explicit reason, I have a few theories. Women on the runway exude confidence, poise, elegance, and grace. Runways tend to emphasize these qualities, amplifying the allure of the garments. It’s perhaps assumed that men do not possess those same qualities on the runway, or at least not to the same extent that women do.
Although the 2019 season witnessed a surge in drag on men’s runways, with men sporting corsets, crop tops and dresses, these models remained confined to men’s shows, never women’s. One could then speculate that although men can wear women’s clothing, their presence on woman’s runway might distract or divert attention away from the sexy, female appeal that most brands seek to embody.
The fashion industry has been long perceived as a realm primarily tailored towards women, despite being predominantly controlled by men. For as long as anyone can remember, fashion has been traditionally reflected as a typically female interest, from which many men were shunned, which explains the lack of male models in women’s shows.
However, there has recently been a swell of men’s interest in fashion, especially among younger demographics. Menswear is also currently experiencing rapid growth, outpacing the expansion of womenswear. Perhaps then, we are moving towards a more balanced portrayal of men and women in the fashion arena, potentially leading to reciprocal representation in fashion shows.
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