Written by Pénélope Flouret
Edited by Ella Querin
Paris Fashion Week 2024 wrapped not too long ago, marking the end of a long and exciting season of new collections. There were countless runway moments to remember, such as Chanel’s short film featuring Brad Pitt and Penélope Cruz, Victoria Beckham’s crutches, and Chemena Kamali’s son giving her a big hug as she thanked the crowd at her Chloé debut.
Queue the time machine as Dior’s show made the guests feel transported back in time. The modern, feminine wardrobe was center stage at Dior. As the models strutted down the runway, Miss Dior caught everyone’s eye; the logo was splashed across some pieces. Tones of white, beige, black, and navy dominated the runway. The logo’s return was not a new graffiti trend but Maria Grazia Chiuri’s idea. Chiuri, who has held the reins at Dior for eight years, returned the older iconic logo from the house’s 1967 advertisement.
According to Harper’s Bazaar, the show notes, “The house had just introduced its first-ever ready-to-wear line, named Miss Dior. It was the brand’s new concept that perpetuated the couturier and founder’s ambition to dress all women.”
In an interview with Vogue Runway, Chiuri explained how she took inspiration from the house’s prime years during the 1940s, 50s, and 60s in preparation for her show. The 1960s were particularly revealing and very successful under the direction of French designer Marc Bohan. Chirui’s mood board was covered in long dresses and A-line skirts. Chiuri said she noticed that “Bohan was the first to start applying printed logos on shoes, stockings, bags and were wildly popular as brand extensions.” The collection made clear that her objective of replicating these designs was successful.
However, the “Miss Dior” was thoughtfully placed on several pieces. Alongside were beautiful outfits with intricate patterns, blue and red plaid, leopard print (a nod to the trend of the moment, which was a personal favorite), and stunning sheer and white evening gowns. There were also several knee-high boots, an homage to the “go-go” look of the 60’s, and exquisite heels and sandals. Berets and blazers also hinted at another nod to the fashion of the 1960s.
Despite the show’s success, fashion lovers disagreed with the new collection. Various fashion Instagram accounts were flooded with comments from individuals sharing their thoughts about the show. One particular account, @crispino21, which has 23,000 followers, featured comments: “Sorry, but since Maria Grazia Chiuri joined Dior, the creativity has gone downhill.” Another comment said, “looked like a Moschino show instead.” A user on @StyleNotCom’s post didn’t have as much hate but seemed to take a spin on the “Miss Dior” writing, stating, “I ‘MISS’ Dior.”
Many stars appeared at the show, from brand ambassador Natalie Portman to actress Jennifer Lawrence and singer Jisoo. The Crown’s Emmy-winning actress, Elizabeth Debicki, sat in the front row; Debicki had worn the brand at various Hollywood events throughout the award season.
All in all, the show was moving and a great hit, with French singer Serge Gainsbourg’s voice concluding the homage to the 60’s era. I thought it was interesting that in her eight years at Dior, Chiuri now decided to pay tribute to the iconic brand in this manner. Her choice to have such an homage as the center focus of the Fall 2024 show was executed perfectly and with much Grazia.
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