Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking

“The Garden of Time”: a close-up analysis of the Met Gala’s looks and theme

By Harantxa Jean

There is only one time in the year when the harshest fashion critics trade the glitz of red carpets for the comfort of their beds, either embellished with bonnets or messy buns. Despite our backgrounds, accoutered in our latest thrift treasures or vintage finds, we meticulously dissect the evening’s looks. And the date never changes: the Met Gala, the pinnacle of the fashion calendar, unfailingly occurs on the first Monday of May. So rise and shine, sleeping beauties—it’s time to dive into the glamour!

Highlighting the audience’s significance is a must during this one-of-a-kind affair, where the public steps into the shoes of a prestigious Academy that determines its victors. Indeed, let’s not forget that the Gala is more than a glamorous gathering but a charitable soirée, with proceeds benefiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.

Since 1948, the Gala has served as a grand kickoff for the Institute’s annual fashion exhibition, aptly titled “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” this time around. This means that despite its elitist aura, the power truly lies with the vox populi, as celebrities vie not for awards but for the public’s esteem. However, not so fast: as media literacy is declining, I want you to understand that there is a way to judge these looks. Critiquing isn’t merely about uttering “I love it” or “Ew I would never wear that”—you need to understand the intricacies of the theme.

This year, the exhibition’s theme seamlessly intertwines with the night’s dress code—”The Garden of Time“— with which designers draw inspiration, crafting their gowns to embody the essence of both the exhibition and said evocative dress code. Now, let’s think of the Garden as a metaphor for a land in which all of its seeds lay, whether on Earth, the Air, or Water. Said three elements (also being sections of the Institute’s collection), give us more to work with, rather than limiting guests to kitsch gears bejeweled with flowers.

Yes, roses are cute, but understand that the theme is an overarching nod to the natural world, which can make us think of mortal creatures such as butterflies, or plants’ very roots in the dirt. Now what about the Time component? Well, nature naturally withers, meaning that if not sustained and after a limited period, said seeds stop producing fruits, and we can only appreciate them for what once were. Imagine a flower that cannot be revived again as an analogy to a dress that cannot be worn again. Those are the sleeping beauties that Dame Anna Wintour invites her guests to reawaken. 

Through interpretation, this Gala is a love letter to all fashion designers, as we bear witness to their creations receiving a second life on this auspicious first Monday in May. This Met is a celebration of the artistry, renewal, and cyclicity that shapes the world of fashion—nature only serves as a portal.

This is why I expected a lot of archival pulls (a trend that has skyrocketed on red carpets), which, other than showing who can obtain what as a way for moguls to brag about their exclusive connections, is very limiting. How can one effectively create a moment out of something that was already there? Stylists need to understand that an archival piece is not enough if not worn correctly; I strived to see rare gowns create new narratives that could both nod to time and nature without damaging them—a fashion fiasco which would completely dismantle the nuances of sustainability that the Costume Institute intentionally projects (for instance, the gowns showcased in the exhibition, like Alexander McQueen’s butterfly dress, can never be worn again, hence the terms ‘sleeping beauties’). 

On the other side of the spectrum, the mystique deepens when contemporary creative directors wove historical references into their creations, whilst embodying the DNA of their fashion houses. An entrance into the realm of dreams, to me, is if a design unmistakably represents the persona of a brand while reimagining the concept of a sleeping beauty in our modern era. At least that’s what I expected. 

And most girls didn’t disappoint

Emma Chamberlain

As Vogue’s sole presenter on the Met Gala carpet, Chamberlain had to arrive early. And what’s not better than showing up as the roots of the Garden? The darkness of the gown contrasting the snowy white shade of her skin made her look like an enchantress emerging from a wintry universe. The veil, embroidered motifs, Cartier jewelry, thorns twirling around her arms, and her own bangs method-acting as branches gives the look the grandeur it aimed for. Emma Chamberlain nailed her best Met Gala look yet, with a reinterpretation of a spring 2003 couture JPG chocolate lace corset— showing her and stylist Jared Ellner’s ability to blend the past with the present. What’s not to like?

Madelyn Cline

Cline is the epitome of a face card that never declines, and we could say the same for her look; a passe-partout garment that would look great on any occasion. Indeed, this look could have easily been worn at last year’s Met as an interpretation of Karl Lagerfeld’s famously-known bridal wear, had she just replaced the floral pattern with Chanel’s camellia flowers. I see Tommy Hilfiger’s touch of quiet luxury all over this beautiful dress and soft-glam, but a touch of color wouldn’t have been booed. Perhaps stylist Marc Mena wanted to play it safe in the most predictably chic manner possible; though I note that the use of silk plays with the theme of sleeping (nightgowns, silk pillow covers, etc.), which is clever.

Tyla

Known for bringing us Water, Tyla’s sand-sculpted gown, paired with the hourglass bag inspired by Sands of Time serves couture dryness. Crafted by Balmain, her look is a masterful interpretation of nature and time. Creative director Olivier Rousteing’s vision shines through in the design, with the gown molded to the starlet’s body, serving as a metaphor that it can only be worn once; an exquisite match to the exhibition’s theme. This is how you do a Met Gala debut. And at the tender age of 22, there’s no doubt that Tyla’s future holds many more unforgettable moments to come.

Jennifer Lopez

As one of the co-chairs of the Gala, Jennifer Lopez carried immense expectations. Her ensemble at this year’s event, however, while attempting to channel the Earth element through ornamented roots over a piece of sheer bodycon fabric, lacked the distinct imprint of Schiaparelli and forgot to capture a remarkable natural world theme. A notable nod is perhaps to the time aspect, reminiscent of her previous ventures into the naked dress style. While her dress is beautiful, it’s natural to anticipate something more spectacular from a fashion icon like JLo. Beauty aside, the boundary-pushing creativity of Daniel Roseberry was oh-so missed (Merci Lena Mahfouf).

Gigi Hadid

Who said camp and glamour couldn’t work? Gigi Hadid looked like Thom Browne’s best reimagination of a modern Marilyn Monroe, with a curled blond bob and rouge lips. With timelessness and risk combined, the dress is a masterpiece; fusing the edgy elements of the house with a deconstructed tuxedo jacket forming a mermaid skirt, while the upper white hourglass silhouette is sprinkled with yellow roses all over it. According to Vogue, this off-the-shoulder show-stopper required over 13,500 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, not just being a dress for the night, but destined for Browne’s permanent archive. Perfectly aligning with the theme of the Gala, this dress will undoubtedly be remembered as a highlight of this year’s Met.

Wisdom Kaye

Well, well, well. A tiktoker at the Met? If there is one who deserved it and hustled his way up for it is Wisdom Kaye. His choice to incorporate the fire element into his ensemble, with a half-burned, inflamed Robert Wun suit, is nothing short of daring. The coat can be interpreted as either a flame, symbolizing passion and intensity, or a withering rose, desperately clinging to life. This juxtaposition of elements, one of destruction and vitality, demands attention and sparks conversation in the menswear sphere. Anyone who is on the fashion side of TikTok rooted for this man to be invited, and he didn’t disappoint.

Taylor Russell

It might seem out of theme at first, but this look is ingenious at its core. Made out of real wood, Taylor Russel embodies a wooden marionette à la Casse-Noisette. We could also interpret her as a tree, but asleep during the day, I see her awakening at night as a real-size Nutcracker for the Met. Talk about sleeping beauty! The flower’s details in her hair and wooden bodice seals a look signed by Jonathan Anderson, matching the overall gentleness and elegance she always carries.

Kendall Jenner

Do we consider this Givenchy creation a sleeping beauty if it has never been worn before? Absolutely. Its elegance and timeless design lay dormant until Kendall Jenner breathed new life into it. Originally crafted by the legendary Alexander McQueen in 1999, this dress remained untouched, preserved on a glass mannequin until its revival yesterday. It felt like destiny: this 25-year-old black and golden dress didn’t need any tailoring as it fits the model like a glove, effortlessly hugging her figure and revealing just enough of her backside. Does it allude to nature? No. But while some might argue that the lack of elaborate hair and makeup feels underwhelming, this dress possesses a radiant quality that shines on its own. I would say that there is no need to add anything to a McQueen, though a bit of drama would have catapulted her into one of the best looks of the night…mitigée is an understatement.

Mona Patel

This Indian fashion entrepreneur’s dress is nothing short of perfection, scoring a perfect 10 across the board. Crafted by the visionary Iris Van Herpen and styled by the illustrious Law Roach, Patel emerges as a living butterfly to embody artistry in motion. The fusion of Indian embroidery pays homage to her cultural heritage, infusing the look with an authenticity that is rarely felt on the carpet. Yet, it’s the butterfly-shaped corset, petal-like train, and moving gloves that truly steal the spotlight. The business woman’s Met debut was a standout moment this year and not only celebrated the Gala’s theme but incarnated a symbol of transformation and rebirth.

Cardi B

Cardi B and her stylist Kollin Carter are the gift that keeps on giving. So when they opted out of the expected floral motifs, it wasn’t a surprise but a delight; whether pregnant or covered in diamonds and jewels, this duo has never missed a Met look. This year, Cardi took her metamorphosis to new heights by embodying a gargantuan black rose by the brand Windowsen. The voluminous black skirt represents the petals of a rose, while Cardi herself is the stem. The symbolism is further complemented by her choice of accessories with green diamond earrings, necklace, rings, and bracelets; all echoing the shade of her green acrylic nails, eye contacts and eyeliner. Her dress was crowned with a towering black turban; a nod to African ancestry, which speaks volumes from a person of Dominican descent. This moment is a celebration of cultural heritage, wrapped in the extravagance that defines the Met Gala.

Zendaya

Zendaya gives us theatrics only how an actress knows how to do it. Not once, but twice. As co-chair, she asserted her dominance by opening and closing the carpet, leaving no doubt as to who reigns supreme in the fashion world. And while my admiration for her looks may be influenced by her acknowledgment of my feature for COF’s magazine on Instagram, I can impartially attest that she and stylist Law Roach are amongst the select few who won the night. Her approach gave more  of a costume and character aura than an avant-garde elevation, though it matched with the theme. For her initial ascent up her throne, the actress donned a mesmerizing gown by Maison Margiela’s John Galliano; a nod to his own iconic 1999 Dior by Galliano collection. Wrapped in layers of dark blue and green fabric, she resembled the ocean and the trees, adorned with details of grapes, branches, and mockingbirds. The lavish glam that accompanied the creation lent her a villain-like aura, differing from the soft beat of her second look. To close the night, the star opted for an archival sophistication, stepping out in a ‘never-before-worn’ vintage 1996 Givenchy piece also designed by Galliano. Adorned with a stunning 2007 Alexander McQueen flower bouquet headpiece, Zendaya brought the evening to a breathtaking conclusion. 

As the curtain falls on yet another Met, we’re reminded that fashion is a reflection of collective imagination. In a sea of memorable looks—from Elle Fanning’s ethereal glass ensemble to Aya Nakamura‘s diamond-studded dress signed Balmain, Lana Del Rey‘s hauntingly beautiful homage to Alexander McQueen’s 2006 allure, to Colman Domingo’s cape paying tribute both to Chadwick Boseman and André Leon Talley—the Met Gala truly lived up to its reputation as the pinnacle of fashion and creativity; where the past, present, and future converge. 

Until next year.