Written by Naomi Pang
Edited by Ella Caverson
When thinking about British fashion, brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, and Ted Baker might come to mind. Yet, no brand encapsulates British luxury quite like Burberry. Only last year, Burberry was struggling to maintain a presence in the fashion industry with the last decade’s increasingly plummeting sales. Fast forward to this year, Burberry made a stunning comeback, even headlining London Fashion Week. This breathtaking revival leads to the big question: how exactly did Burberry reclaim its place as the dominant British fashion house?
Burberry, a symbol of British Fashion
Thomas Burberry established the brand in 1856. Since its founding date,
Burberry has been known for its high-quality outdoor wear, based on the brand’s original vision of creating functional apparel that can withstand the unpredictable British weather. The brand’s most celebrated creation, the trench coat, was initially developed for the British military. The coat’s durability and practicality would later be adopted into civilian wardrobes, making the trench coat an iconic symbol of British fashion.
Thomas Burberry’s sons would later create the iconic Nova Check, a white, black, and red plaid against the beige background, a pattern now synonymous with Burberry wear.
The Decline of Burberry
In the early 21st century, the Nova Check design was seen everywhere. While this may have brought increased attention to Burberry, it was not for the reasons the brand may have hoped for. The Nova Check design was commonly counterfeited, becoming associated with the Chavs, a derogatory term used to stereotype working-class youth who were often regarded as rowdy. Some establishments, notably British pubs, began banning patrons seen wearing the Nova Check pattern due to the perception of their unruly nature.
In this same period, celebrities were also seen wearing Burberry. Public figures such as Kate Moss and Prince Harry were often seen carrying Nova Check bags. However, this was not enough to appeal to the general public. The association of the design with the Chavs created a poor reputation for the brand. This shift resulted in Burberry’s decline in prestige, isolating themselves from the traditional upscale clientele. Burberry sales continued to decline throughout the 2010s.
The Joshua Shulman Effect
After a declining decade from the 2010s to the 2020s, Burberry appointed Joshua Shulman as its new CEO in July 2024. Shulman initiated a strategic plan that was grounded in going back to Burberry’s roots of British heritage, craftsmanship, and culture. This new shift in perspective saw a change in Burberry’s identity, reclaiming the brand’s relevancy in the fashion scene.
British identity was presented as a central theme in Burberry’s marketing schemes. One bold strategy of Shulman was his heartfelt storytelling campaign, “Burberry Portraits” which used senior British individuals who have been long-term supporters of the brand. Sharing their intimate personal connections towards the brand was able to capture a new sense of nostalgia, attracting many to reconnect with their roots by sporting Burberry.
Shulman also worked with iconic British celebrities to further enhance and broadcast the Britishness of the brand. A-Listers such as Olivia Colman and Liam Gallagher became some of the new faces of the brand.
Daniel Lee’s Revamped Creative Plan
Daniel Lee, the chief creative officer of Burberry also played a pivotal role in Burberry’s revival. Lee joined Burberry in 2022 and with Shulman’s arrival, they began to work closely to rejuvenate the brand. Before Shulman’s arrival, Burberry’s clothing was often seen as niche and trendy, an aesthetic that many could not resonate with the brand’s British elegance. After Shulman and Lee’s collaborative takeover, they reintroduced many of Burberry’s iconic pieces, going back to the traditional signature designs, broadcasting a version of Burberry that many resonated with fondly.
London Fashion Week 2025
Set in Kensington Gardens in London’s Hyde Park, Burberry’s fashion show in the recent London Fashion Week demonstrated their resurrection. Instead of hopping onto the latest fashion trends, the new summer collection showcased their elegant signature trench coats and suits. The pieces were shown in bright, vibrant colours, bringing in a refreshed look of modern contemporary fashion. A key theme of the collection was festival wear, as Lee saw music festivals as the embodiment of British summers. The show was also accompanied by the remix of “Planet Caravan” by the Black Sabbath, which was also a fitting choice.
The show saw many British celebrities attending, including Elton John, Raye, Naomi Campbell, Olivia Dean, and more. All to say, Burberry’s summer 2025 collection showcased reworked versions of their iconic pieces while incorporating a new pop of colour, which undeniably brought a new life to the brand’s heritage pieces, paving a new future while embracing the past.
Burberry’s Successful Rebirth
This successful transformation of Burberry enabled their revival in the fashion world. The brand’s investor shares have gained approximately 50% since Shulman was appointed CEO. Having previously dropped off the FTSE 100 index in the previous year, this year saw not only their reemergence to the FTSE 100 but also their identification as one of the 100 most valuable companies on the London Stock Exchange. Additionally, the brand’s effective social media campaign captured a younger, diverse clientele, eager to sport Burberry’s modern British luxury, bringing in a new market for the brand.
Looking Ahead: Burberry’s Legacy
Burberry’s revival and resilience reinforce the power of legacy and heritage in a brand’s identity. The reshaping of the brand’s identity situates Burberry as timeless British fashion while continuing to innovate. From its beginnings in the 19th century to the present day, Burberry’s comeback highlights that the best fashion is often rooted in a culture that resonates with the identity of the public.
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