Written by Naomi Pang
Edited by Ella Caverson
At the start of the year, it was announced that Pieter Mulier, the creative director of Alaïa, will be leaving the brand after five successful years. Mulier is a Belgian designer that gained traction in the early 2000s. After studying architecture at the Brussels Institut Saint-Luc, he was invited by Raf Simons to work alongside him at his label. Throughout the 2010s, Mulier acted as Simons’ creative partner, designing side by side at Jill Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein before Mulier’s appointment as Alaïa’s creative director in February 2021. Mulier played a pivotal role in driving Alaïa’s sales, providing consistent year after year growth. Between March 2024 to March 2025, sales rose from €96m to €146m. Mulier’s time at Alaïa’s also contributed to many of the brand’s bestsellers, such as the Ballet Flats and the Le Teckel shoulder bag, strengthening the brand’s global reputation and recognition. As of July 2026, he will be the chief creative officer of Versace. Leading up to the show, Mulier emphasized that this collection would be a tribute to the brand’s legacy, reflecting Alaïa’s signature tailoring and contemporary minimalism in ready-to-wear. Mulier expressed, “This collection is not about me. It is about the Alaïa team—our family—and an expression of all we have learned, and felt, and loved across the past five years.” Here’s a recap of Mulier’s FW 26 collection for Alaïa at the recent Paris Fashion Week.
Simplicity and Bodily Precision
A signature of Mulier’s Alaïa has always been simplicity in ready-to-wear design, celebrating form, movement, and shape in craftsmanship. In true Alaïa fashion, models wore simple body-con dresses of different lengths and varying neutral colours. The flattering mock-ruching of the fabric reflects Alaïa’s blending of casual sculptural precision and effortless style.
Throughout the show, form and the body were key themes. The collection displayed elevated monochromatic jumpsuits with precise tailoring. A remarkable item was the strapless dress with a snug bodice and skirt flaring at the hips with its fabric draped in relaxed, tapering pleats that exaggerate the body’s curves. This dramatic skirt had an effortless elegance while elevating the everyday wear, foregrounding Alaïa’s duality.
The Art of Texture
Unlike the softness in the dresses and monochromatic suits, the coats introduced sharper silhouettes. Mulier played with texture in the outerwear, incorporating crocodile textured leather, lambskin, and fur. His crocodile tailcoat adds a clean rigidity to the structure and enhances the tactile experience of the pieces. The bold and textured outerwear is an emblem of Alaïa’s signature refinement and sophistication.
When the Clothes Speak for Themselves
In showing the clothes, the models were unaccessorized—no jewellery, bags, eyewear, or hats. Mulier’s focus on the garments was appreciated, as no attention was drawn away from the garments. At the end of the Alaïa show, Mulier was met with a standing ovation while taking his final bow. Among those applauding were crucial figures such as Anna Wintour, Matthieu Blazy, and Mulier’s mentor Raf Simons. Pieter Mulier’s last collection for Alaïa illustrated a carefully crafted balance of strength and refinement, where every garment speaks for itself. From the textured outerwear to the minimalistic dresses, Mulier’s final collection demonstrated Alaïa’s commitment to simplicity and minimalism while asserting his distinctive vision. With such a powerful farewell, all eyes are on Mulier as he takes the reins at Versace.