Written by Naomi Pang
Edited by Charlotte Baier
In autumn, there is one thing on every fashion lover’s mind: fashion week season. Over the past few weeks, I have been hooked on scrolling through TikTok and Instagram pages, seeing the runways, clothes, and celebrity styles of this Spring/Summer 2027 cycle, and I am sure you COF readers have been doing the same. But there is a show in particular that I cannot stop thinking about, and that is Valentino’s Antibiblioteca Show at Paris Fashion Week.
When thinking about Italian fashion, Valentino immediately comes to mind. From their iconic Rockstud heels to their timeless Valentino Red, Valentino has been a driving force in shaping the fashion industry for decades. At the recent SS27 show, the world saw the imaginative designs and vision of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, and it proved once more why Valentino remains at the forefront of the fashion scene.
Alessandro Michele was inspired by essayist Nassim Nicholas Taleb’s The Black Swan, where Taleb describes Umberto Eco’s library and emphasises how the unread books he has are objects that hold infinite possibilities. Michele’s titled the SS27 show Antibiblioteca, drawing a parallel between unread books and unworn clothes as both collections of knowledge and possibilities that have yet to be revealed. Garments that have not been used or worn are still full of meaning, and a space of opportunity to be explored. The name, the fashion, and the location of Paris’s historic universal library, Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, brought Michele’s vision of the antilibrary to life.
In line with the theme, guests were each asked to bring a book, either new or from their personal library. After the show, the books were donated to local libraries to be enjoyed by new readers. Among the guests’ selections were Mika Abdalla’s Emma by Jane Austen, Joe Alwyn’s James and the Giant Peach by Roald Dahl, and Cynthia Erivo’s Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin.
Upon first glance, I was struck by the vibrant shades of green, pink, lilac, and magenta, creating a colourful collage of swaying fabric down the runway. This colour palette instantly provided a sense of warmth and freshness to the pieces, perfect for spring and summer. Set against the neutral-toned Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, the outfits popped even more, giving the collection an invigorating and rejuvenating energy.
Another aspect that caught my attention was how Michele’s SS27 collection used a variety of textures in the garments, including lace, beads, fringe, feathers, sequins, jewels, and satin. Each material helped add dimension and depth to the pieces. At the same time, these embellishments also made the pieces look glamorous, intricate, and sophisticated, reinforcing Michele’s commitment to maximalist ready-to-wear fashion.
Models wore oversized blazers paired with fitted shirts and sharply tailored trousers in both the men’s and women’s collections. The tailored outfits appeared in neutral tones and bright colours, leaving the impression that tailored style, although normally found in monotonous office attire, when reimagined, can become an opportunity for playful and dynamic styling.
The accessories, in my opinion, stole the entire show. These statement pieces acted as the finishing touch to each outfit, bringing individuality and character to each look. Many models wore oversized sunglasses throughout the collection, suggesting that within the next spring/summer season, we may be trading in our slim frames for bolder, larger glasses. Chunky statement jewellery made a recurring appearance across the show, from elaborate pearl necklaces to long beaded earrings and layered necklaces. I think we can all agree: these stylings show that jewellery can transform an outfit. Finally, where would maximalism be without a striking bag? The classic DeVain bags were visible in a variety of styles and colours. Every version used a unique array of beading, patchwork, and sequins; the designs produced many distinct floral and vivid arrangements that truly demonstrated how fashion is art. Ultimately, despite each accessory demanding attention, they complemented and worked with the rest of the outfit, completing the design.
Alessandro Michele’s SS27 collection for Valentino undeniably brought a spirited and lively mood into the fashion scene. In a world where monochromatic minimalist silhouettes continue to shape the fashion industry, Michele’s colourful collection acts as a reminder to embrace colour and texture, and to use everyday wear as an opportunity for exploration and self-expression.