Natalia Kazantseva 

A mountain of 200,000 boxes of condoms, an explicit moan soundtrack and provocative symbols— an odd place to be at. Well, around 5,000 people were invited to the Spring-Summer 2023 Diesel show, which surrounded avant-garde themes and overall sex positivity. 

Creative director, Glenn Martens, introduced the show with a focal focus on technique. His technique consisted of intricate manipulations that he has been working on since he was appointed creative director in 2020. The show consisted of three correlated effects: Degeneration, deterioration, and erosion. Marten’s famous work is also famously known to be done on jean garments. This technique can be seen in his opening garments: Dresses, skirts, and jeans crafted in denim devoré, which left some denim patches intact and other parts of the garments transparent. He also pursued this effect in a long diamanté column dress that portrayed the “Riches-to-rags” concept of the collection. 

Other techniques included a dress that was made in memory of a pair of jeans, followed by a knitted dress that unraveled into fluff with the gown slowly deteriorating behind, giving that subtle deterioration effect. To give into that erosion effect, Martens included statement pieces that suggested erotic themes paired with the mountain of condoms behind. It included sets of lip and teeth prints made out of plastic materials and stiff textures. 

Diesel showcased extravagant looks paired with a unique backdrop and soundtrack. Can you guess what kind of soundtrack? Explicit moans of course.

The entire show was all about pushing boundaries in a fun way, which was taken very seriously by Diesel. The collection overall accurately portrayed the themes of freedom, pleasure, and experimentation with models walking behind the giant mountain of Durex boxes. I think it’s safe to say that this might be the most innovative collaboration made in the fashion world in a long time, with a contraceptive company. This set design definitely had people talking during fashion week, as well as the invitations which, relating to the theme, were sent in the form of Durex packs. In addition, the brand announced that it will distribute over 300,000 condoms across its stores in April. Oh, and what could be better than leaving the show with a box of condoms as a parting gift? The clear message is: To practice safe sex. 

This extravagant set-up shouldn’t be surprising coming from a brand like Diesel,  since for its Spring-Summer 2023 presentation last September, it erected an enormous inflatable that earned a Guinness world record for the world’s largest-ever blow-up sculpture. 

Many have different opinions on whether this show was too raunchy or provocative, but isn’t that what fashion is all about? To push new ideas into the world? The other side argues that this show explored new interesting themes and successfully portrayed the new trend of sex and the thrill of the naked. The New York Times declared “Diesel was brilliant. This is why we need designers.” 

In the real world, everything is taken seriously, so when spectators see a brand such as Diesel explore new themes, it opens the door to criticism and opinions that feed the fashion world with new ideas. Moving forward, it is certain to say that Diesel’s show in Milan fashion week will inspire other brands to push limits with out-of-the-box ideas. What do you think, would you be comfortable sitting at the show with a pile of condoms and erotic noises playing in the back?

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