NYFW F24: 5 Trends to Look Out For

By Chloe Chase Tebbutt

Edited by Ella Querin

With the closing of Pitti Uomo, Milan and Paris men’s show, the next event in the fashion world is the highly anticipated New York Fashion Week.

New York Fashion Week is right around the corner, beginning February 9th, when established designers and up-and-coming entrepreneurs will debut their fall/winter collections. With the occasion comes herds of celebrities seated in all the front rows, textile technicians making last-minute edits, and cameras at every turn. Within the first few days, Kim Shui, Proenza Schouler, The Blonds, Jason Wu, Thom Brown and Ludovic de Saint Sernin will jumpstart NYFW. You cannot miss the resurfacing of old trends and the emergence of new ones – the fashion week will be reenvisioning the old and advancing current trends and microtrends, so here’s what to expect.

More ‘Pantless’ Runways

Brands like Acne Studios, Viktor & Rolf, Jacquemus, and Marni have recently debuted this newer trend in fall, and most notably surfaced when Emma Corrin walked in Miu Miu’s 2023 fall show, showcasing a pair of bedazzled underwear and tights. The look was controversial as the Miu Miu underwear alone cost USD 5,600.

Several other designers have also introduced pantless garments into their collections, and there’s no stopping now – Irina Shayk appeared for Schiaparelli, Anok Yai for Bottega Venetta, and Cora Corré for Vivienne Westwood, to name a few. The trend seems to favour the ‘little bottoms, big tops’ proportion with high heels a common choice to complete the look. You can be sure to check out more pantless looks during NYFW.

Subtle Hints of Mermaidcore

Perhaps the most relevant designers now including hints of Mermaidcore into runways are Sandy Liang, Jason Wu and Anna Sui. Sandy Liang has often embraced the influence of Ballet core but recently has ventured into ballet core, with her previous NYFW show styling models with wet-looking hair, ‘rhinestone barnacle’ facial gems and nail art, and seaweed-like flowers.

The Mermaidcore look is becoming more common, with designer Jason Wu showing that it is here to stay with his siren skin, glossy hair and a hazy fresh-from-the-sea glaze. Wu shows off the aesthetic’s versatility while pairing it with more conventional clothing in his previous NYFW collection with blazers and structured pieces.

We can’t bring up mermaidcore without mentioning Versace. Known for shiny latex and glamour, Versace seems to have predicted the success of this trend from the start. With their Spring/Summer collection of 2021, they got ahead with the ‘wet’ look and executed one of their best runways yet. Designer Iris Van Herpen, known for her 3D mind-bending geometric garments, also embodies Mermaid core, making her pieces look as if they’re floating underwater in Atlantis.

Anything but a Normal Tie

With menswear finally becoming a little more interesting, celebrities have been stepping out in their typical suits, yet with a tendency for more fun with interesting colourways and the lack of a boring old tie. Barry Keoghan attended the 2024 Golden Globes wearing an all-red Louis Vuitton suit, accessorised with a Dracula amulet with one matching earring.

Khalid Abdalla also attended the Golden Globes appearing in a thoughtfully layered coat. Armani debuted a collection at their previous NYFW show that demonstrated the beginning of this trend with several menswear looks that were made just that little bit less sophisticated and more youthful by opting out a boring Windsor knot for scarves, harnesses, and more unorthodox accessories for the neck.

Anything Chunky and Gold

If you know anything about Schiaparelli and Versace, you know the two legendary couture designers love a good chunky gold detail. Schiaparelli specialises in sculptural gold elements in nearly all of their designs, originating from Elsa Schiaperreli’s wild imagination and artistic director Daniel Roseberry’s magnificent execution. Some of the most viral looks from Schiaparelli include Bella Hadid’s Cannes Film Festival dress, Lady Gaga’s bulletproof dress at Biden’s inauguration, Doja Cat’s iconic dress at the Billboard Awards, and most recently, Dua Lipa’s dress at the 2024 Golden Globes. Versace’s signature gold details are in their iconic gold safety pins. First donned by Elizabeth Hurley, the small clips of pure luxury have become a staple in the brand’s image, and the pins continue to be featured in runways and on the red carpet. Anne Hathaway stepped out at last year’s Met Gala with a Versace look that paid homage to Karl Lagerfield, but still included these pins. Dua Lipa also wore the pins with a black and white Versace dress when she picked up two Grammys.