Anushka Manoj
From Kylie Jenner’s lion-head gown to Doja Cat’s mustached look, Haute Couture Week 2023 in Paris was filled with head-turning moments. As a fashion fanatic who religiously follows fashion weeks and pop culture, and also as an Indian woman who dreams about the biggest lehengas every day, the highlight of Haute Couture Week for me was Indian couturier Gaurav Gupta’s debut.
One of the biggest names in India’s gigantic fashion industry, Gaurav Gupta began his label in 2005 with the vision of “Indian at its core with an idea of the future.” He has dressed numerous celebrities since, including Megan Thee Stallion and Cardi B, representing Indian couture globally. This is especially significant to me since the West gets its idea of Indian fashion from gross misrepresentations and disastrous styling failures like Harry Potter’s Parvati and Padma (side eye). Growing up, I constantly realized how the west represents Indian fashion is far, far from reality. India’s fashion is diverse, detailed and constantly evolving. Modern-day designers are going beyond the traditional heavily-embroidered lehenga to make more personalized and millennial Indian wear. Gupta’s work is a classic example.
For Haute Couture Week, Gupta showcased his collection ‘Shunya’, which literally translates to “Zero”. “We have explored zero in its absolute form and how it expands into infinity”, says Gupta. The idea was that his pieces would not have a beginning or an end, delving into fantasy and surrealism. Made in handwoven tissue, his collection features both neutral and bright colors from silvers to blues. He also incorporates Indian mythical elements in his embroidery, using fabrics like organza, crepe and Banarasi brocade, and techniques like Kundalini embroidery. Gupta’s detailing represents the core of Indian traditional fashion. From Tamil Nadu’s Kanjeevaram sarees to big North-Indian bridal lehengas, intricate detail and embroidery is the core of Indian fashion.
Rooted in Indian traditional fashion, ‘Shunya’ brings together movement and emotion. Gupta bravely challenges the global idea of what Indian fashion is. The feeling of having a completely overlooked industry represented at Paris Haute Couture Week was a splendid one, at least for me.
Gupta’s brand is based on taking elements from India and giving his own spin to them. His unconventional designs are also very popular amongst Indian brides. His work represents the versatility of modern Indian fashion. “We are driving a non-conformist culture which is abstract yet liberating at the same time.” says Gupta. While traditional Indian lehengas and sarees can never possibly go out of style, Gupta’s work portrays modernity, indulgence and movement. He is widely known to have popularized a modern pre-draped saree gown within the Indian bridal industry. His saree gown is now a staple in the millennial bride’s wardrobe.
Gupta’s haute couture week debut represents the future of Indian fashion and allows fashion fanatics worldwide to view Indian fashion beyond tradition. The Gupta brand may not fit into the traditional image of Indian fashion, but it offers a whole new perspective on what the industry can be. I would also love for the fashion industry as a whole to explore Indian fashion in more depth- some of my recommendations are Sabyasachi, Masaba Gupta and Anita Dongre, as well as more underrated designers like Akanksha Gajria, Anju Modi, and Mahima Mahajan.
More from ‘Shunya’: Gupta’s Haute Couture Week Collection:
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